LONDON, United Kingdom — After a January spent travelling between the menswear and couture reveals, BoF editor-at-large and famend trend critic Tim Blanks offers his verdict.
“There are these real high points that make me feel good about what’s going on,” he says, reflecting on the menswear season at massive, regardless of the sense of uncertainty about what the menswear reveals will find yourself that means. Whereas London and Milan had been extra subdued, in Paris trend grew to become consolidated, with heavyweights like Virgil Abloh, Kim Jones and Hedi Slimane all presenting their collections and Raf Simons returning house.
A London spotlight was Craig Inexperienced, who for Blanks is “the most interesting menswear designer in the world.” In the meantime in Milan, Miuccia Prada was “still angry” and there was a way of migration within the garments. In Paris, the shift from streetwear to tailoring was evident, with Abloh making an attempt to reformulate the swimsuit at Louis Vuitton, and Kim Jones injecting a newness into the method. Over at Slimane’s first menswear present for Celine, lots has occurred in trend since his tenure at Saint Laurent, and he’s now “one voice of many.”
“There was so much energy around couture,” says Blanks, with designers making it related once more in methods which can be unprecedented for the medium. A spotlight for the second season in a row was Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose assortment took Blanks to the heyday of couture within the 1950s displays by Christian Dior and Balenciaga — “it was dress after dress after dress that was a work of art.”
Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller, who did this couture assortment for herself, slightly than an homage to the posh home’s founder Hubert de Givenchy, was one other spotlight, whereas Karl Lagerfeld’s couture present for Chanel, from which he was absent on account of tiredness, was serene and mild. Contrasting with the classicism of Valentino and Chanel had been Maison Margiela and Iris van Herpen, each displaying various ranges of futurism and modernity.
To subscribe to the BoF Podcast please comply with this hyperlink.
Subscribe to BoF Skilled for limitless entry to BoF articles, plus unique advantages for members.
To contact The Enterprise of Trend with feedback, questions, or speaker concepts please e-mail email@example.com.