Raf Simons has been rewriting the home guidelines since arriving at Calvin Klein in August 2016: combining males’s and girls’s; redoing the John Pawson temple to minimalism that was the model’s Madison Avenue flagship in electric-yellow paint and Sterling Ruby sculptures; reserving the Kardashians for the corporate’s denims marketing campaign. Every transfer has served to nudge the model again into the style dialog. Even declining to launch photos for pre-collections has appeared solely to extend curiosity in what Simons does—not less than right here at Vogue HQ.
Now, simply as Resort 2019 is ramping up—Dior, his former stomping floor, is exhibiting in Chantilly, France subsequent week—Simons is sharing choose photographs of his Pre-Fall 2018 lineup, styled and photographed by his longtime collaborators Olivier Rizzo and Willy Vanderperre. (The timing isn’t as bizarre because it sounds; a dozen or so different main manufacturers have opted to carry their photos till the products arrive in shops, too, however Vogue by no means posted his Resort assortment.) The set for this shoot seems to be the barn from the Fall present, solely minus the truckloads of popcorn, and the garments seem like streamlined variations of a few of what we noticed on the runway again in February, amongst them a simplified silver foil slip gown and a razor-sharp knife-pleat skirt. The quilting motif that Simons launched in his first season has been reworked into heavy-gauge brand sweaters; and the Andy Warhol Basis collaboration continues, most notably on leather-based equipment printed with the artist’s iconic Pop florals.
As Simons has settled in at Calvin Klein, he’s embraced the unlikely combine, rewriting, if you’ll, his personal early rule about minimalism. Nothing right here rivaled Fall’s prairie gown and hazmat boots for unsettling, however the big puffer/tailor-made coat mixture, and slips paired with Pendleton barn jackets or athletic leggings and attractive pumps had been unlikely sufficient. After a group that includes these hazmat waders and delicate sandals misplaced in popcorn, the largest takeaway from these footage simply may be these attractive heels.